It’s important to make sure your image re-sampling is set to “Bicubic Smoother,” which is more clearly marked in the latest version of Photoshop as being “best for enlargement.” If you’re planning on printing the image when you’re done, the professional standard resolution is 300 ppi. However, you can usually get away with 240 ppi, and if your project doesn’t need perfectly crisp images upon close inspection, you can get it down as far as 200 ppi. (If you’re just printing personal photos to stick to your fridge, 140 ppi might even be enough for you.) This cheating can score you precious size for your upscale.
- The steady hand approach is all about good posture and a firm camera grip whilst hand holding.
- Where possible use a tripod and electronic shutter release.
- Use plenty of good quality light (courtesy of the big yellow ball in the sky)
- Light your subject with the most powerful flash your money can buy and put it through the biggest softbox possible. (Big Light=Soft Light)
- Keep the ISO down to the low end of things ISO100, ISO200 etc… although if you have the likes of EOS5D MkII or Nikon D700 then you won’t even worry about this so much.
- Crop in camera (See below). This will make a huge difference.
- If you can afford it, then get fast glass as this will help in low light situations. Most people can afford a “Nifty Fifty” at f/1.8.
I tend to shoot my subjects close up (remember your photo instructors saying you to make one more step forward once you think you are already close enough to your subject?) but for all of you who like shooting wide, here is why you should reconsider that…
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